The Caledonian Sleeper Train
One of only two sleeper services running within the UK, the Caledonian Sleeper runs between London and Scotland. With a sleeper service running on this line since 1873, the journey is steeped in history and antiquity. After a multi-million pound investment and refurbishment in 2019, it now provides luxury travel to all those who step on board. With just one seated compartment available, the rest of the train is dedicated to providing private twin or double rooms complete with their own private en-suites. Oh, and don’t forget the fabulous dining carriage for food and drink on board; which gives priority to those in private cabins.
I’ve always found sleeper trains a very romantic and pleasurable way to travel. Not only can you can take on as much luggage as you want, you don’t have the hassle of a ‘check-in’ or tiresome passport controls (unless the sleeper traverses different countries of course!). On board the Caledonian Sleeper you can get a good dinner before getting some good quality shut-eye, waking up to views of the Cairngorms whizzing past and spotting wildlife.
When to go: The Caledonian Sleeper runs year round and Scotland is a stunning destination at any time of the year. It depends whether you are looking to scale munros; in which case you need them to be clear of snow and should opt for summer months, or whether a snowy scene is more up your street. I love Scotland in all seasons and would recommend visiting multiple times to see how the landscape changes.
Essentials to pack: Your sense of adventure! You don’t even need to bring an eye mask as the Sleeper service provides this in your cabin, along with some chocolate and toiletries.
How to get there: The Caledonian departs London Euston station every night except Saturdays. Euston has extensive rail connections across the UK.
Cost: The sleeper service ranges in price from approx. £50 per person for a seat to £200 per person for a private double en-suite, with twin cabins somewhere in the middle of that price. The price fluctuates throughout the year, with summer and school holidays being more expensive than mid-week shoulder season departures. Winter can also be expensive as Scotland is a skiing destination.
Top tip: Those who book the Caldonian Double and Club cabins are entitled to use the first class lounge at London Euston which provided us with free soft drinks, hot drinks, snacks and larger food options prior to boarding. The lounge also has private shower facilities along with hairdryers, plug sockets and very comfortable seating. A great way to start any trip!
Snacks in the first class lounge at London Euston
Hairdryer and getting ready area at London Euston first class lounge
On board the Caledonian Sleeper train
After boarding we headed to our cabin which was a private twin en-suite room (called a Club room on the website) and realised the train was not quite built for backpackers - the rooms, although luxurious and comfy, are very small, as are the corridors where we got a bit jammed walking through the train. We found a helpful carriage assistant who allowed us to store our backpacks in the luggage compartment so that we had enough room to move around our cabin. Once we’d ditched our non-essentials for the journey, admired the freebies in our cabin and settled in, we headed to the bar-restaurant carriage.
As we’d paid for a Club cabin, we were prioritised upon entry and guaranteed a seat in this carriage over those who had paid for seated or classic tickets. This is also the case for those who book the Caledonian Double cabins. We had ourselves a couple of drinks - Irn Bru and Whisky, of course - and then ordered a delicious dinner from the on board menu which prioritises Scottish dishes with ingredients which are locally and responsibly sourced.
Once we’d eaten a hearty dinner and sampled several Scottish Whisky’s, we retired to our cabin to enjoy the plush surroundings and get to grips with the en-suite toilet-cum-shower; of course I used it even though I was clean - I’d never showered on a train before and the water pressure and temperature was great.
The shower/toilet room - lifting the lid on the bench seat revealed the toilet - a very clever design.
We had a very peaceful and comfortable nights sleep in our cabin. The quilts and pillows provided were of exceptional quality and we were warm and cosy on board in March. We didn’t use the eye mask and earplugs provided but they were a welcome addition in case we did struggle to sleep. There were ample plug sockets, USB charging points in the cabin and also multiple light switches and temperature controls. There was also a “Host Call” button which our carriage attendant informed us we could use any time in the night if we wanted a hot drink or snack or simply needed assistance.
In the morning, soft light streamed in through our cabin window as we got up and dressed slowly and lazily, enjoying the comfort and privacy our cabin provided us with. We watched various stations whizzing past and at around 7am we went to the restaurant carriage again to have our breakfast which was included in the ticket price - you can choose from porridge, cereal and continental style choices, or opt for something more substantial such as eggs on toast or a full Scottish breakfast. We got to eat our breakfast whilst enjoying incredible Scottish scenery and were ready to depart once we arrived in the Cairngorms.
To travel by the Caledonian Sleeper is an adventure that I think everyone should experience at least once - for a comfortable and luxurious travel experience with amazing food and outstanding service from the staff, the price is actually incredibly reasonable.
The worst part of the journey was getting off the train - I’d loved every second!