Brussels
The Grand Place at night
The capital of Belgium, home of the European parliament and considered the centre of Europe, Brussels is a city full of jaw-dropping architecture, lively bars and eateries and museums and culture to boot; what’s not to love?
With the pedestrianised area around the Grand Place being considered the centre of the capital, small alleyways lead you outwards to larger shopping streets, parks and galleries. The centre of the city is easily explored on foot and for those looking to explore all corners of the city, Brussels also boasts several efficient forms of transport; busses, trams and metros traverse the city, enabling you to hop on and off when convenient at a relatively low cost.
The word Brussels is said to derive from Old Dutch language ‘Bruocsella’ meaning “settlement in the marsh”. The largest city in Belgium has grown from a small 7th century settlement to home to over 2 million people. A hub for young creatives from around Europe, the city shows off it’s vibrancy with year-round art and culture displays. A city which in the past has often been overlooked or used merely to change trains whilst getting to other European cities, Brussels is now top of the list for many people and a must see for anyone visiting Belgium, and this blog will tell you why!
When to go: Year round, weather is similar to most of northern Europe. April - October most temperate weather. The Christmas market here is said to be as good as the one in Bruges and the decorations really add something special to the city - consider visiting in December.
Essentials to pack: Big coat/windbreaker, trainers, hat to cover ears, stretchy trousers for the chocolate and beer belly you will develop!
Currency: Euro - £1 = €1.15
Must see: Grand Place, Manneken Pis/Jeanneke Pis/Zinneke Pis, Jazz @ L’Archiduc, St Michael and St Gudula Cathedral, Parc du Cinquantenaire, The European Parliament, Galeries Royales St Hubert, Comic Art Museum, Delerium Alley, Royal Museum of Fine Art
How to get there: Train from London to Brussels (www.eurostar.com) approx. £150 return, 2 hours travel time each way. Driving London to Brussels 5 hours. 1 hour flights from London to Brussels approx. £80 return. Bus from London to Brussels approx. £40 return, 8 hours travel time each way (www.flixbus.com).
Public transport: Fast and efficient busses, trams and metros traverse the city. Public transport is easy to use and runs frequently 24hrs a day. Buy tickets for metros prior to getting on at machines in stations - they accept card or cash payments. For trams and busses you can buy tickets on board with cash, or before getting on at machines by cash or card.
Where to stay: We wanted to stay somewhere that was within easy reach of the main attractions in the city but also wanted to keep the costs down by cooking some meals ourselves. We looked at hostels but they were very expensive. We ended up booking an Airbnb apartment which was near to Porte de Hal and actually located inside a Hilton Hotel (https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/45628450?_set_bev_on_new_domain=1677146309_NWMyZGE2MjNmN2U3&source_impression_id=p3_1677146307_ed92Ad5pcfWu9V87). It was a roomy apartment in studio style with sofa and tv area, dining table and separate kitchen area with all equipment for cooking provided. We paid £450 for a week here, which was the cheapest accommodation we could find with a kitchen. The location was fantastic and we benefited from the hotel facilities; there was a bar downstairs and a gym which we could use. They also had a business centre for working and a café area. A great place to stay in the city for exploring; the location was fantastic and the price unbeatable for a high quality apartment.
5 day itinerary:
Day 1:
You’re here, in Brussels, the capital of Belgium! The first place you should go is the Grand Place in the very centre of the city, a pedestrianised plaza which is surrounded on all four sides with elegant and impressive buildings which date back to the 14th century. Standing in the middle of this square and soaking up the historic architecture is something everyone should do twice on their visit - once in the daytime and once at night, when the buildings light up and take on a magical glow. The buildings are protected UNESCO heritage sights and as soon as you set foot in the square you will see why!
As you’re already in the square, this is a great time to jump on a free walking tour, all of which depart nearby. Sandeman’s offer a free tour of Brussels which departs at 11am every day and lasts 2.5 hours, departing from the tower in front of the City Hall in the Grand Place.
The walking tour will take you to ‘Mannekin Pis’, a 17th century fountain with a bronze statue of a young boy having a wee - the water for the fountain coming out of his you know what! The Belgian love a joke and you will see this after the tour when you search out the other statues ‘Zinneke Pis’ which is a dog having a wee against a bollard and ‘Jeanneke Pis’ which is a fountain above which the statue of a little girl with pig tails is squatting and having a wee. All worth checking out if you like a bit of a giggle and admire alternative art.
Close to Zinneke Pis is a bookshop called Passa Porta, home to a huge selection of books in a range of genres and languages. If you are looking for something to read whilst on your break - pop in here and you’ll find it.
When you find ‘Jeanneke Pis’ you will be in an alleyway called Imperial de la Fidelite, but is known as ‘Delirium Alley’. This narrow street is a dead end, only about 100m long by 2m wide, but it hosts several bars and pubs dedicated to Belgian beer, specifically Delirium. With a logo of a pink elephant, this beer is well known and loved for it’s taste and strength. The watering holes in the alley cater to all tastes however, and you will find many different Belgian beers here. Stop for a drink and take the weight off your feet after all that walking!
All that walking and drinking will have made you hungry - head back towards the Grand Place and stop at one of the many nearby waffle joints for a hit of the famous Belgian delicacy which can be found in savoury or sweet forms all over the city. If you are vegan or gluten free, hit up “The Sister” just off the main square, who specialise in both.
From here it’s a short stroll to St Nicholas Church which dates back to the 12th century and is thought to be the oldest church in Brussels. If it’s open, which is usually is, head inside and marvel at the gothic designed ceiling, stained glass windows and gigantic organ.
Have your dinner at Le Cirio, an institution in Brussels. A restaurant and café since around 1886, it is one of the greatest shows of Art-Nouveau design in the city. Still boasting it’s original features, layout and decor, you will find yourself immediately transported back in time through the dark wood panelling, ornate curved mirrors and elegant gilded columns. The food and drinks here are actually very good value too - a bonus!
Day 2:
Today is a day full of museums folks, so I hope you packed your comfortable trainers. Heading out to explore Brussels’ Royal Museum of Fine Art first of all, you’re in for a treat. With Belgian art dating from the 15th - 21st century, the collections are hugely varied in style and context. Paintings, sculptures and prints show the development of European art through the years. The museum has exhibitions on constantly which change every few months; when I visited the exhibition was on Rene Magritte, a Belgian surrealist artist known for his depiction of familiar objects in unfamiliar scenarios. The current exhibitions are on Picasso, Johan van Mullen and Prune Nourry - check out what’s on when you’re there.
If there is no exhibition on Magritte whilst you’re there (I got lucky!) then there is a museum next door fully devoted to the highly celebrated Belgian artist.
After a couple of hours soaking up art, head over to BELvue across the road to take in some of Belgium’s history, culture through the ages and democracy. A highly interactive museum, there are newspaper clips, posters, graphs, statistics, videos to watch and audio clips to listen to, as well as information boards. Themes in the rooms consist of democracy, language, solidarity and Europe amongst others. An interesting insight into what being Belgian really means.
BELvue is located in one side wing of the Royal Palace of Brussels, so when you head outside for some air, cross the street to soak in the impressive façade of the palace. Built in the 1800’s on the site of another palace which burnt down, it is still used by the royal family of Belgium and is the King’s main residence and workplace. The building is open for free tours throughout the summer.
Hungry? Walk 10 minutes south to the Parc D’Egmont to have lunch in La Fabrique en Ville, a vibrant café which serves great coffee, pastries and delicious simple lunches such as salads and panini’s. If you’re visiting on a weekend you may have to book - this place is popular with locals and tourists alike.
After you’ve had a nice long well deserved lunch, head to L’Archiduc for drinks and some entertainment. An art-deco cocktail bar which opened in 1937, it is a small space and has incredible original features - from the upholstered banquette seating to the old style sinks in the toilets where a foot pedal is used to supply water. The entire jaunt is oval shaped, with a grand piano dead centre and all seats facing this small stage area. Regular jazz concerts are performed here. If you visit on a Saturday at 5pm, there is a free jazz concert - get there about 4.30pm, the place fills up as soon as the saxophone gets going!
Day 3:
Setting out in the morning on foot or by Brussels’ impressive metro system, head towards the North-Eastern side of the city and Parc du Cinquantenaire. A large urban park of approximately 30 hectares, this is one of the biggest green spaces in the city and is located in the European Quarter.
Wander round the park for a morning stroll and soak in the sights. The park is home to several monuments, statues and the impressive Triumphal Arch which dominates the landscape here, the park is also where the Art & History Museum is located. Worth a few hours of wandering around, this museum showcases artifacts discovered from prehistoric ages through to present day. Including antiquities, ethnographic objects and decorative arts, this museum is a fascinating place to see how history and art combine.
Once you’ve had your fill of historical artifacts from around the world, head over to Parc Leopold, a smaller urban park where you can grab a takeaway coffee and sit on the bench watching ducks, geese and swans stroll around the grass and gliding on the lake.
Head over to Grand Central for lunch - a busy place with several healthy options if you’ve had one too many waffles (although, is there such a thing as too many waffles?). Once you’ve eaten your lunch and people watched for a bit, you’re practically next door to the European parliament, which is more than worthy of a walk around. You’ll find big imposing looking buildings with all glass exteriors, rows of flags of countries within the EU (insert crying face emoji here - no UK flag anymore), and an eclectic mix of business women and men amongst gaggles of tourists.
The Parlamentarium is Europe’s largest Parliamentary visitors centre and will take you from A-Z on the EU, explaining how Parliament works, how laws are made and why politics matter. Panels and displays highlight more than 100 real people’s stories on the diversity of the continent of Europe - take a virtual tour through the interactive floor map. An interesting section showcases the impact that the EU has on the lives of people worldwide.
Just off Parc Leopold, The House of European History is a free museum which is well worth a visit - we spent about three hours there. Focusing on big phenomena which have changed and shaped Europe as a continent, the museum covers democracy and politics as well as World Wars, the Cold War, social security, communism, changes to borders and maps, immigration and culture. A large museum spanning 5 floors with an audio guide and accompanying smart tablet provided for free to give you information as you move around the exhibits.
Tired after another day of museum hopping, you’ll be wanting a drink. Walk a few minutes to Place du Luxembourg near the EU parliament - a vibrant space ringed with good watering holes. Cafe Luxembourg is a great place to sit and people watch from out front, and the drinks are very reasonably priced.
Day 4:
Today’s agenda… shopping!
Start off your day by strolling along Rue Haute in the south area of the city. The road spans from Porte de Hal all the way to Boulevarde de l’Empereur in the heart of the city centre. The road is lined on both sides with hoards of good antique, charity and vintage shops hawking new and second hand bargains often sold by the kilo.
Les Petits Riens, Fripkot, Mademoiselle l'Ancien and Melting Pot Kilo are all great shops to find that bargain pair of cords or dungarees you’ve been after. This street is also full of vinyl record stores, organic food shops and cute cafes with vegan fare - very bohemian.
Once you’ve spent a morning browsing the quirky stores of Rue Harte, pop to the nearby church Notre-Dame des Victoires au Sablon to ogle at its 15th century gothic façade and interior décor. If you’re enjoying the gothic architecture you should also head to Brussels’ Cathedral - Cathédrale des Saints Michel et Gudule, built in the 16th century and an important and impressive building in the capital. The main exterior has two 64 metre high towers which are typical of the French Gothic style and were built between 1470 and 1485. The pleasing symmetrical frontage of the Cathedral can be admired from the small park opposite, where benches sit beneath leafy trees and provide a nice respite from the sun on a hot day. In this park you may also see people playing chess on small tables placed in the park for exactly this purpose.
If you’re looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the city centre, head to the Botanical Gardens in the north of the city. A terraced park area dating back to the 1800’s, it hosts specific rose and iris gardens as well as animal and nymph sculptures, providing respite from busy city life.
However, if you were enjoying your day of shopping, allow it to continue by heading to the Place de Brouckere - the cities main shopping area for high street and department stores and the site of the largest shopping centre in Brussels, where you can lose yourself for a day or more amongst clothes rails and changing rooms. There are a lot of chain-type restaurants here too for if you need food or drinks.
In the evening, go for dinner at Le Cercle des Voyageurs where the food is great and the ambience even better. A restaurant themed on travel - where could be more enjoyable to while away your evening? The ceiling hosts vintage maps and globes painted by hand, the walls are stuffed with vintage suitcases and travel books are on every surface that you look at.
After dinner go for drinks at Vertigo on Rue de Rollebeek and try their signature cocktail La Flûte Enfumée for an interesting bitter sweet concoction.
Day 5:
This morning you’re going to squeeze in one last museum, but it’s less information heavy and more all about the visual. The Comics Art Museum near to the Congres metro station is a homage to creators of comics where Belgian heroes TinTin, Asterix and the Smurfs are a staple and other comic exhibitions rotate to create a fun, creative and dynamic experience.
It is worth a visit to the museum to see the building itself: an enchantingly beautiful Art Nouveau building designed by Victor Horta and an exceptional example of period design. The on site café is a great place for breakfast or morning coffee whilst you admire the elegant building.
After your stop at the Comic Museum, wander over towards the shopping area and seek out Les Galleries Royal Saint Hubert which forms a trio of old style shops under an ornate glass domed roof. Built in the 1800’s and project of architect Jean-Pierre Cluysenaer whom aimed to construct a building which could combine homes, shops and cultural spaces as well as a place for walking.
Nicknamed the “Umbrella of Brussels” due to it’s curved glass rooves, the Florentine Renaissance style walkways are beautifully designed. The glass canopy is held up by a series of self-supporting curved arches with fish scale tiles. Wandering through this area could take some time, as you will struggle to look anywhere but up, and then you’ll realise you’ve missed a fabulous shop or eatery and have to retrace your steps!
Two of the shops in this area cannot be missed on a trip to the Belgian capital. Maison Dandoy have been making biscuits in the capital since 1829 and their ‘Speculoos’ are famous throughout the city. A Dandoy speculoos contains cloves and cinnamon and can be brought plain, with vanilla or coated with chocolate.
Another must try sweet treat is Belgian chocolate from Neuhaus. Since 1857 they have blessed the city with mouth watering chocolates and they have cafe’s and shops all over Brussels which shows just how popular they still are. It is said that Jean Neuhaus Junior invented the Belgian praline in 1912, and the company has been strict in ensuring that all chocolates are made in Belgium and not outsourced. If you make a purchase, no matter how small, they usually throw in a couple of freebies.
Walking ten minutes east will bring you to Parc de Bruxelles which is a pleasant place to sit and watch locals play boules whilst you sip a drink at Kiosk Radio, a small café in the park. Tonight is your last night in the city, so treat yourself to a dinner out in the Grand Place square and catch the scene after hours.
Top tips:
If you visit the city on the first Wednesday of the month - which I managed to do just by chance - a lot of the museums are free, so make that your day for museum hopping!
Consider getting the Brussels Card - with 24, 48 and 72 hour versions starting from 32 euros, it may be worth investing in if you only have a short time in the city and you don’t manage to go to the museums on the day they are free! The card gives you access to 50 museums, free public transport and discounts at other tourist attractions and hotspots.
Staying longer in Brussels? Escape the city and cycle the Promenade Verte, a 60km cycle path which skirts the outer reaches of the city.
