Cairo
A city dissected by the mighty River Nile, boasting skyscrapers contrasting with souk markets, and more chaotic than anywhere else we’ve ever been, Cairo is not for the faint hearted. At first, the noise, smells and scenes around you can feel like a punch to the face, but the more time you spend in this city, and the more you surrender to the rhythm, you’ll find yourself delighting in the chaos.
We only had a week in this crazy place, but we found ourselves relaxing into the beat of the city – a beat which sounded vaguely like car horns beeping. Even after our visit, we felt that we could spend a hundred years exploring Cairo and still have more to see. A city full of different cultures, cuisines, religions and nationalities; a real mashup. This is reflected in their national dish of Koshary, which looks as though someone has thrown everything random they could find into a pan and cooked it up (it’s delicious though!).
Here’s some of the things we discovered whilst in the city which, if you’re going to visit Cairo, we hope will help and inspire you on your trip.
When to go: We visited in November and the weather was hot but bearable. The best season to visit is between November and April when the weather is supposedly cooler.
Essentials to pack: Trainers are best for all the walking you’ll be doing whilst here! A thin layer is essential as it’s respectful to cover up but it can get very hot. Lots of suncream and a hat are required for your sightseeing here.
Currency: 63 EGP = £1 (November 2024)
Must see: The River Nile, The Pyramids of Giza, Rooftop Zamalek, The Hanging Church, St. George’s Church, Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church, Koshary (dish), Fasahet Somaya (restaurant)
Where to stay: We don’t have too many good tips here – we stayed in an apartment we booked online in the Downtown area of the city and we would not recommend it. Although the apartment was fine, the area was so noisy at night that we struggled to sleep!
Coworking: Are you a digital nomad and looking for coworking spaces in Cairo? Not too far from where we were staying in Downtown Cairo, we discovered the fabulous cowork space of Consoleya. There were different membership packages and prices but the minimum to work in the Coworking Café was 250 EGP per person per day (around £4).
Things to do in Cairo:
Of course, you can’t come to Cairo without taking in the expansive and majestic River Nile. It dissects the city, with skyscrapers rising up on both sides of the banks, and is mesmerising in it’s beauty. We walked along both sides of the river, crossing over busy bridges filled with traffic when required.
We’d recommend you wander the river banks to get acquainted with the river and how it impacts the city. It won’t be long until you have the desire to be on the water, not just next to it. There are various taxi-boats which criss-cross the river at regular intervals but if you want to experience the river properly we’d recommend you book onto a Dinner Cruise on the Nile.
For the best value for money Rooftop Bar in Cairo with views of the River Nile, get yourself over to Rooftop Zamalek.
How do you find Rooftop Zamalek? On arriving here you’ll probably be confused as there’s no signage at ground level which tells you you’re in the right place. The entrance looks a little like the entrance to a hotel.
The security guard here was very helpful as he asked us if we were looking for the rooftop bar and told us to go through the security check, then take the lift to level 4. Once at level 4 we went up two more flights of stairs and found ourselves on the most amazing rooftop terrace with panoramic views down across the river and the city which made a backdrop behind it.
One of our favourite things about this bar was that there was alcohol and it was fairly cheap! If you’ve been to Cairo you’ll know that as a predominantly Arab country, alcohol is not always available in bars and restaurants, and if it is, it can be overpriced. But, at Rooftop Zamalek, that isn’t the case. They had cold beer and wine for good prices.
If you arrive at around 4pm (in November – sunset times vary year round!) you’ll see the panoramic city vista in both daylight and at night. You’ll also be able to watch the sunset around 5pm. As the sun goes down, the buildings opposite and the river are transformed by the changing light, reflecting hues of orange, pink and purple.
3) The Pyramids of Giza & Great Sphinx
Again, a sort of prerequisite to your visit to Cairo should be that you want to visit the oldest and last remaining Ancient Wonder of the World. I’m talking, of course, about the Pyramids of Giza and the Great Sphinx. We were very excited to see these famous man-made structures, but until we arrived at the site we really had no concept of the sheer scale of them. We came to Giza for a 1 night stay to be close to the pyramids and so that we’d be able to see them early in the morning and late at night when it was quieter with less day-trippers. We highly recommend this to everyone as it gives you a different perspective.
The main reason we enjoyed our stay here so much was because of the hotel we stayed in, Hayat Pyramids View Hotel, where our room had a balcony with a view of two pyramids and the sphinx – it was absolutely incredible. The rooftop terrace also had panoramic views across the entire site of the pyramids. If you’re planning to stay in Giza, stay here! Our guide has all our top tips including how to book a tour and see the pyramids and sphinx up close.
4) The Egyptian Museum of Cairo
No visit to Cairo is complete without seeing one of it’s world famous museums, and our recommendation would be that you visit The Egyptian Museum of Cairo.
This museum is the oldest archaeological museum in the Middle East, housing over 170,000 artefacts. It also has the largest assembly of Pharaonic antiquities in the world, most of which were discovered in southern Egypt and brought to the museum. The exhibits span hundreds of thousands of years, from around 5500 BC to AD 364.
The building alone is worth a visit, with it’s incredible pink-hued grand exterior and huge sphinx statues guarding the entrance. It was designed by a French architect and built in 1902 by an Italian company, and has a certain colonial look to it. There is a café in the courtyard outside where you can refresh yourself before going in and/or you can relax after your visit.
Once you’ve queued and gone through the security checks, you need to go to the ticket booths on the right hand side of the complex to buy your entry pass. This costed 550 EGP, around £8.50 per person. Once you’ve got your tickets, there are guides waiting outside who you can pay to take you around the museum and explain more of the artefacts. We chose not to do this and stick to a budget.
Once inside we were a little overwhelmed by how chaotic it was, but in hindsight we decided that it was in line with the rest of the city. You go through another bag check, then have a ticket check and then are free to wander. That’s if you can move through the throngs of people blocking the entryway, stairways and generally just everywhere.
Although busy, this museum is worth a visit to see the incredible exhibits inside. From the mummified remains of various pharaohs, the ancient hieroglyphics and art-work discovered on stone and tombs, to the incredible treasures discovered in the tomb of Tutankhamun, including his several coffins and famous Gold Funerary Mask.
5) Koshary: Egypt’s National Dish, at Abou Tarek
A must try whilst you’re in the city, and the best place to try it is Koshary Abou Tarek.
Koshary is the national dish of Egypt and, surprisingly, is vegan!!! It’s a hot dish most often had for lunch or dinner and consists of pasta (macaroni and spaghetti), rice, lentils and topped with chickpeas, crispy onions, tomato sauce, vinegar, lemon, and an optional extra of hot sauce. Each diner decides whether they add hot sauce – it is on the table.
Yes, we know that sounds weird, possibly even disgusting. We thought so too but were intrigued to try it. And, we found it absolutely delicious! The combination of spices makes the dish interesting and the different ingredients provide texture and mouthfeel.
You really should try Koshary for the first time at the famous Abou Tarek restaurant. Located in downtown Cairo, it’s always full to the brim of people (even with four floors!) and they don’t take reservations. As soon as we arrived we knew the food would be good as it was mostly full of locals. We walked in and found an empty table on the second floor. After a few minutes, a waiter came over and asked us what size portion we’d like. The restaurant only serves Koshary and your options are small, medium or large.
The food comes out quickly here no matter how full it is, and took around 5 minutes. The wait staff added our chickpeas, onions and tomato sauce on at the table in a show-worthy fashion. We tucked in. Our eyes locked over the table. Wow. It was delicious. And, it was super cheap, around £1 a bowl for a medium portion.
Coptic Cairo is a huge complex of churches which are interlinked through maze-like alleyways and passages. The Church of the Virgin Mary is better known by it’s nickname The Hanging Church.
The nickname comes from the fact that the church was built on top of the walls of a 4th century BC Roman fortress – the remains of which are still visible. In ancient times, this church towered over its surroundings on the high walls of the fortress.
Just next door to the Hanging Church is the Church of St. George. A relatively new building compared to many of the other buildings in the area, it was constructed in 10th Century AD but actually destroyed by a major fire, meaning it was later rebuilt. Construction was only completed around 120 years ago. What is unique about this church? It is one of the only round churches ever built in Egypt. It is visually pleasing from the exterior and interior and well worth a visit.
The church of Abu Serga - St. Sergius in Arabic – is also known as Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church. One of the oldest churches in Cairo, it was built sometime in the 4th century CE. Legend has it that the site was chosen as it sits on the cave where Jesus, Mary and Joseph rested at the end of their flight from Palestine, as refugees in Egypt.
Outside the complex of churches, down the narrow alleyways, we discovered what we named “Book Alley”. A street full on either side of books and textbooks for sale - many in Arabic, but also many in English. I loved seeing all the Agatha Christie books there!
We stopped for a drink at a lovely café just outside of the Coptic Church complex. There are a few similar looking cafe’s and eateries along this road which make a great place to refresh before you end your day of exploring.
Looking for more great places to eat? Head to Fasahet Somaya.
Open every day except Saturdays from 5-7pm, this restaurant is run by a family who want their diners to experience a taste of real, home-cooked Egyptian food. The place is run by Somaya Al-Asyoty, an Egyptian woman who is a great cook and loves to welcome people into her restaurant as though they are stepping inside her home.
Each day, there is no ‘set menu’ in mind, Somaya Al-Asyoty simply goes to the market and see’s what she feels like buying. Then, she creates masterpieces in the kitchen which are served up to guests each evening – between 5pm and 7pm only.
Fasahet Somaya is not a huge restaurant, so make sure you’re there early to snag a table. We arrived around 4.45pm and there was around 20 people already waiting outside, but it varies each day and there is only room for about 40 people to be seated. Once inside we were seen to very quickly and asked our choices out of 3 main dishes, two sides, and drinks. We opted for courgette in bechamel sauce, beef casserole and sides of rice and bread. Everything we ate was absolutely delicious.
If you go one place to eat out whilst in Cairo, make sure it’s Fasahet Somaya.
That about wraps up our guide of things to do whilst you’re in Cairo. It’s a city that’s in your face, uncompromising and hectic, with more noise and smell than we’ve ever experienced. But, if you give it some time, once you scratch the surface and succumb to the tempo, you’ll see that there’s beauty in almost every corner.