Mont Saint-Michel, Normandy
Mont Saint-Michel is a place that, once seen, will be burned into your memory for the rest of your life. With it’s majestic abbey and striking architecture rising in sheer drama seemingly out of the sea it defies gravity and logic.
The island lies 1km off France's north-western coast and is around 4km square in area, home to a population of only 30 people. This rocky tidal island was built over a period of 1300 years during which the construction was halted every time the island was cut off by the tide.
Twinned with St Michaels Mount in the UK – a place of the same name – both islands are similar in that it is a popular activity to walk across the beach at low tide. This must be done with a guide in the case of Mont Saint-Michel due to quicksand and tidal changes.
When walking from the free parking area, you can turn right here to find the shuttle busses, or continue straight on to walk to the mount
When to go: A place that can be visited year round, but more temperate weather from May-September. We visited in August and it was beautifully warm but quite busy.
Essentials to pack: Trainers are best for all the walking you’ll be doing on your visit! A jacket is essential if you’re planning on walking across the causeway – it can get windy.
Currency: €1.20 = £1 (October 2024)
Must see: The Abbey, Church of Saint Pierre, Le Grand Rue, The Ramparts, The incredible architecture
How to get there: Self-drive – we took our motorhome – via the ferry from Portsmouth to Caen using Brittany Ferries. Caen is then only 2 hours from Mont Saint Michel. The crossing was smooth and quick. Approx. £300 return and 5 hours travel time each way.
Train from London to Paris (www.eurostar.com) and then Paris to Pontorson via Rennes (www.trainline.com) approx. £400 return and 7 hours of travel time each way.
Flights from London to Rennes approx. £70 return 1 hour each way direct with Ryanair (www.skyscanner.com).
View from our ferry crossing
Public transport: The sights here are walkable. There are no vehicles on the island itself. There are busses which run from the information centre to the island entrance which are free of charge if you don’t want to walk across the causeway to the island.
Where to stay: We didn’t stay the night here, as we visited from a housesit in Villedieu-les-Poeles. However, it would be incredible to stay on the island itself and be there when the day-trippers have left. There is availability on Booking.com but the prices are quite expensive (ranging from around £100-400).
1 day itinerary:
09:00:
You’ve crossed the causeway either by foot or free shuttle bus and you’re standing at the entrance of this magnificent island mount. It’s certainly impressive to behold, so take some time to gaze skywards in wander at the sheer height of the abbey that sits atop it, as well as the beautiful architecture of the buildings lower down.
Wander the old cobbled streets at random, discovering the quirky alleyways, small entryways and maze-like thoroughfares. There are lots of touristy shops on the main street (Le Grand Rue) which you may feel like going in – if so, it’s best to do that now before it gets too busy.
It's also a nice time to step inside the tiny Church of Saint-Pierre – you’ll probably have it to yourself. Set into the rock of the mount this church dates from the 15th century and is a peaceful reprieve from the busy streets outside.
10:00:
You’ve walked around and are ready for a hot drink. Head to L’Auberge Saint-Pierre and try to snag one of the tables in the ‘window’ – there isn’t actually any windows, it’s open air, but being on the side nearest the street gives you the best vantage point for people watching. The coffee here is good, and they serve proper English breakfast tea too!
Tom and his mum at the “window” table - Tom’s mum came with us to Mont Saint-Michel
11:00:
After you’ve refreshed yourself and had your fill of people watching, it’s time to explore the city walls or ramparts which rise up in a protective formation around the island. These were built to keep the island safe from invasion, and also to protect it from strong tidal waves. There are a lot of steps involved so you’ll be glad you’re wearing those trainers! The city walls stretch about three quarters of the way around the mount and the views from them are incredible in each direction. Some of the restaurants and shops are accessible from the walls itself which makes the walk fun and interesting.
The ramparts getting busy with tourists
12:00:
End your walk of the ramparts outside the entrance to the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel – the most magnificent building I’ve ever seen. This building was one of the first sites included on the UNESCO World Heritage list and when you gaze upon it you can understand why. At just €13 per person to enter on a guided tour, it’s well worth a visit to find out more about it’s unique history. Tours run in multiple languages and it is advised to book online in advance.
Our tour guide in the Abbey
Building of this incredible abbey began back in 1023 but the interior and parts of the exterior have been rebuilt several times over the years due to sections collapsing. The resulting style is a mishmash of both Romanesque and Gothic architecture.
Cloisters courtyard inside the Abbey
On the tour you’ll be taken through several of the rooms as well as the main church. These include monks quarters, courtyards and cloisters, smaller chapels and private dining rooms for the elite society and knights that used to frequent the abbey.
13:30:
Leave the abbey soaking up all of the information that your guide has shared with you. You may be shocked when you exit to see just how busy the island has become – some streets may be clogged up with people and impassable due to their narrowness. If, like us, you see this as your signal to leave the place, head back to the bottom of Le Grand Rue and exit. We got the free shuttle bus back to the tourist information centre, but you can walk instead if you like.
View of the Abbey from the Ramparts
14:30:
Once back near the car indulge in a late lunch of fresh seafood and great wine. You’ve just explored Mont Saint-Michel like a pro!
TOP TIPS FOR AN ENJOYABLE VISIT:
Do not park at the tourist information centre, it costs approx. €25 for the day. Park for FREE instead at Parc des Breches and walk the 20 minutes to and from the tourist information centre.
Get there as early as you can to avoid crowds!
The shuttle bus is free so if you would rather not walk to/from the causeway, make use of it! It runs every 15 minutes during the daytime.
We walked to the causeway and got the shuttle bus back. That way, we got to soak up the incredible views of the mount and majestic abbey as we got closer towards it, and saved our legs on the way back! It’s quite a long walk, especially if you’ve used the free parking further away.
The causeway does still flood when there is a supermoon, and although it is very rare, it’s best to check the tidal calendar to ensure you don’t get cut off.
Wait to eat lunch until you’re back near the free parking area – there are some lovely restaurants there such as Bistro Du Mont and they are half the price of those on the island itself!