The Tongariro Alpine Crossing: Northern Circuit

In a landscape which has formed over thousands of years, the history and geological importance of this place remains vivid in my memories. The stark contrasts created by the tranquil lakes, pine forests and volcanic rock formations are inconceivable and transport you to a pre-historic era.

The name Tongariro comes from the Māori words ‘tonga’ meaning ‘south wind’ and ‘riro’ meaning ‘carried away’. The strong breezes which whip through the valleys and high over the peaks of the national park are testament to this name. In 1887, a partnership was formed between the New Zealand Government and the Ngāti Tūwharetoa indigenous people whom wanted to make sure the land was protected. The National park is currently 796 square km.

The Tongariro Northern Circuit is a walk that is suggested by the Tourism office of New Zealand be conducted over 4 days (3 nights). It could be possible to walk it a bit quicker, but due to the fact that there are only 3 places you can stop to camp on the circuit, you are pretty much going to be doing it over 4 days. You need to book your sleeping places at the huts well in advance as this is the north island of New Zealand, and the good weather combines to create a paradise for hikers and tourists alike.

Start/end point: Whakapapa village

Average duration: 4 days

Distance: 45-50km (there are some side trips you can do)

When to go: October - April due to snow in NZ’s winter months

Difficulty: Moderate

Maps/Info: The walking route is very well signposted, with most of it on constructed boardwalk to protect the biodiversity of the area.

Downloadable brochure provided by NZ government:
https://www.doc.govt.nz/globalassets/documents/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/tongariro-taupo/tongariro-circuit-brochure.pdf

All Trails provides a great downloable map which will sync onto Google maps/Maps me/other formats as required:

https://www.alltrails.com/en-gb/trail/new-zealand/manawatu-wanganui/tongariro-northern-circuit

Day 1:
We left Whakapapa village early on the first morning and found the first section of the walk fairly quick and easy, arriving at Mangatepopo Hut around lunchtime. This section of trail is about 9.5km and fairly even underfoot, and a gentle uphill climb towards the end. We were excited and that probably made us walk quicker! The landscape was already incredibly impressive, and we walked in ancient lava flow river beds, constantly under the watch of Mount Ngāuruhoe rising dramatically out of the landscape on our right.

Above from left: Mangatepopo hut, Tom hiking, our tent set up for the night, me at Mangatepopo hut, me on section one of the trail with Mt Ngāuruhoe behind me (Mt Doom from LOTR)

Day 2:
We left Mangatepopo Hut very early in darkness with headtorches on. This section of trail is 14km, and we knew it was going to be a tough slog as most of it was steeply uphill, to the top of the Red Crater, and then steeply back down the other side. The boardwalk is flat for a few kilometres after leaving the hut, and then the sharp climb begins. The uphill walk felt unending and I remember feeling as though we’d never reach the top of the Red Crater. We had left early not only because of the distance and climb we had ahead of us but also because this section of the trail is also known as the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and is the busiest section, due to the fact that it crosses paths with a shorter walk which can be completed in a day. We wanted to get to the top of the Red Crater as early as possible, so we had less people to contend with.

The route to the top was loose underfoot, with volcanic rocks and ash making it difficult to keep our footing. Onwards we went, until finally we reached a section where the top of the crater was visible; behind a queue of people. We wondered idly why there was a single file queue, and then we saw it. This section of the walk we had to hold onto metal pegs and be nimble on our feet for about 10 metres. The trail was very narrow and almost on a cliff edge. Palms sweating, I stepped up and edged forward, breathing heavily and realising how far it was if I fell. I kept putting one foot in front of the other and adjusting my hold on the metal pegs, and reached the other side fairly gracefully (well that’s what I’m going to say on here!).

After pausing for rest at the top, we began our descent, which was pockmarked with incredible views far across the horizon. We saw the dazzling Emerald lakes and Blue lake from up high and took a side trip to Blue lake to get closer to the water. As this is sacred land you cannot enter the water but the sight of it was enough to make us feel connected to the formations. After having lunch at Blue lake we continued our descent down towards Oturere hut where we stayed overnight.

Above from left: Us at the top of the Red Crater, looking down into the Red Crater, landscape and rocks we had to climb over, boardwalk climbing slowly uphill, Blue lake, Emerald lakes

Day 3:
We left Oturere hut the next morning, our bodies aching all over from the ascent and descent of yesterday, and hauled ourselves back onto the trail. Our bags were heavy on our shoulders but the incredible scenery continued with a gradual descent down into pine and beech woods, crossing streams and volcanic fields before a short uphill took us to Waihohonu hut. This section of the trail is a short 8km and allows to you arrive at the hut early, meet other people and head down for a swim in the stream. There were some hot springs here that all of us went to for an evening “bath”.

Day 4:
A longer walk of 16km awaits you today, but heading west along more even and flat ground makes it a smoother and more gentle walk than the other days. You will walk next to the imposing beast of Mount Taranki today, which tends to have snow at its peak no matter how hot New Zealand’s sun burns. The landscape is full of interesting flora and you can see far to the horizon in most directions. Enjoy this last section of the walk, as it takes you back to Whakapapa village. Just before the end of the trail path, we arrived at Taranaki Falls, which was streaming with ice cold water from the mountain peaks. It felt like the right way to end the walk, having now seen the mountains in all their forms.

Above from left: Tom and I on the boardwalk with Mt Taranaki in the background, Mt Taranaki seeming closer than ever, Taranaki falls