Osumi Canyon - Albania’s “Grand Canyon”
Hiking in Albania is wondrous and otherworldly - the scenery is jaw-dropping and for a lot of hikes you may find yourself completely alone on trails, leaving you feeling you may be the only person to have witnessed the beauty of the national parks in the country. Osumi canyon is located in between the Tomorri Mountain National Park and the Fir of Hotova National Park, with small picturesque mountain villages such as Poliçan and Bogovë perched high on it’s cliff edges.
The gorge itself is 26km long and is thought to have been formed around 3 million years ago by water erosion. Albanian mythology gives an alternative method of Osumi’s formation. Legend has it that two brothers named Tomorr and Shpirag were well known for their bravery and handsomeness. They were inseparable and loved each other deeply. One day, Tomorr met Osumi; the most beautiful woman in the country, and he fell in love with her.
The next day, Shpirag also meets Osumi and inevitably also falls in love with her, unaware that his brother has already met and is in love with Osumi. Osumi, stuck between the two of them, is said to have loved them both and visited them both in secret. Tomorr became aware of the secret and the legend says that his scream was heard up to the sky. He attempted to get his brother to stop pursuing Osumi but Shpirag refused and was furious. Tomorr felt he had no choice than to kill his brother. During the battle both brothers were fatally injured. When Osumi heard about the tragedy of both of their deaths, she began crying endlessly and her tears formed the Osumi River, which is situated between the Tomorr and Shpirag mountains.
The region is indisputably beautiful and a hike here is a great way to view the canyon. Alternatively, in the summer season, Albania Rafting Group (https://www.albrafting.org/) can take you rafting down the canyon.
Start/end point: Çorovodë, a fairly large town sitting between the Tomorri Mountain National Park and the Fir of Hotova National Park - road conditions to the town were good in April 2023, but check this with locals prior to leaving Berat as the road surfaces in Albania can fluctuate hugely year round.
Average duration: 4-5 hours
Distance: 11 miles or 18km
When to go: April/May or September/October - shoulder seasons for best weather and less people but trail is accessible year round depending on snow fall
Difficulty: Moderate
Maps/Info: Information for hiking in this region of Albania is scarce and the best way to find out about trails and whether they are passable is to check with locals - if you are staying at a hostel in Berat check with them.
Komoot provides an in depth guide of the hike here:
Nature: Keep an eye out for Brown Bears when you are hiking in this area. Friends of ours saw a wild bear on the same day we were hiking the canyon.
The hike:
This is a loop walk, so you can do it in either direction; we did it anti-clockwise as that way we’d come back towards society once the majority of the hike was done and we could stop for a drink before we reached the very end.
Once you’ve ditched your wheels in Çorovodë, head towards the centre of the town and locate the pedestrianised - and dare I say ramshackle - suspension bridge and cross over the canyon so that you are on the side away from the town.
Sticking close to the water, head out of the town on the main road. Be mindful of vehicles in both directions as there is no pavement on this first section. Keep walking for around a kilometre and follow the road when it heads away from the waters edge and goes more inland. Walking on the road still you will pass through quieter residential zones, where workers are toiling clearing weeds or harvesting crops and locals catch up over morning coffees. The main road will split and you want to keep to the left path, climbing up a steep hill. Continue on the road for another kilometre and if you look to your left you may catch glimpses of limestone rock or chalk blue water. The further you go, the more remote you get, until you come to a gravel track which heads off to the left towards the waters edge.
Follow the track along the waters edge for the next 5-6km and admire the views down below you. You will come to a great viewing point and large rock which juts out over the cliff edge - go and stand on the edge and enjoy the panoramic views!
Standing on the rock which juts out over the cliff edge and provides amazing views!
Once you’ve soaked up the views and dragged yourself back onto the gravel trail - watch out for off road vehicles going in both directions on this path - continue along the trail for another kilometre or two, after which the trail goes steeply uphill and away from the water. You will pass through a small settlement of around 5 houses clustered together on farmland, where chickens, sheep, cows, goats and dogs roam free.
When we did this section of the walk in April 2023, the route was slightly unclear which may be because settlement boundaries move frequently in Albania - if you are unsure, ask a local which way to walk to the canyon and they will help you. This section of the hike was also very muddy and wet from recent rainfall when we visited so you may get a little dirty!
Leaving the settlement, you will head steeply downhill back towards the canyon and follow a path along the waters edge again for another few kilometres. On this section of the walk we enjoyed unobstructed views of the canyon and cliffs, fields and farmland. The views behind you stretch as far as Mount Tomor on a clear day. We passed only farmers with their cattle and working donkeys.
A little further on and not too far before you cross over to the other side of the canyon, you will come to a small bridge over one of the main water supplies to the canyon. It’s a great place to stop for a snack and admire the small pools that form or to play pooh sticks which is what we did! Vast volumes of water rush under the bridge in spring; from recently melted snow coming down off the mountains.
Carry on over this small bridge and the path quickly descends towards the cliff edge again, and soon you will join back up with a road which leads you to a large red metal bridge - cars and people can cross the canyon here so be careful of vehicles. The bridge provides very impressive views in both directions of the rock formation of the cliffs and the water rushing below you. The bridge is not for those who are afraid of heights, as there are several gaps beneath your feet so if you look down you can see the drop underneath you!
This bridge is the halfway point of the walk so it may be a good time for a well earned cereal bar and a sit down to admire the views.
View from the red metal bridge
Crossing over the metal bridge it’s a steep climb up back to the road where you will turn left and continue to walk on the other side of the canyon to that which you were on for the first 5.5 miles. You pretty much stick to the main road now for the last half of the walk. The first few miles are sparse of foot and vehicle traffic and not many cars will pass you - any that do are usually heading the same way as you, towards Çorovodë.
Around half way back you will come to a metal walkway and viewpoint over the canyon as well as a round hole in the base called the “Brides Hole”. There is a small information panel there to tell you the legend of the hole. It relates to a bride who was getting married against her will; following old traditions. Begging to God, the bride asked him to open the rock and save her from the marriage which she desperately didn’t want to have to be a part of. The legend says that the rock listened and revealed a hole to her in the rock face. The bride jumped down from her horse and into the hole, never returning to her village. This sacred place has been visited in more modern times by young brides who have problems conceiving; it is said to help with fertility.
After spending some time at this lookout, there is another viewpoint around a mile further on the hike, but this viewpoint consists of a metal walkway which protrudes over the canyon some 20 metres. Only 10 people are allowed on the walkway at one time due to the weight limitations of the structure and the views over the canyon are spectacular.
On the walkway which only allows 10 people on at a time
Carrying on towards Çorovodë once more on the main road, in another couple of kilometres you will come across a hotel restaurant called Guest House Bracaj which has a great view down over the canyon from their terrace out the back and is a good place to stop for a coffee before the final push of the walk. After your rest, the final two miles of the walk goes steeply downhill towards the town and you will find you complete the last section very quickly. Find your car and drive back towards Berat if that’s where you are based. Have lunch in Bogovë - you’ll have built up quite an apetite!
TOP TIP: If you have longer in the area or fancy a longer hike, a further 2.5km south of the Osumi Canyon (red metal) bridge is the Summer bar/restaurant, a great place to stop and access the water for a swim - cold but refreshing!