Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park: Uluru Base walk
Nothing can prepare you for your first sight of Uluru. Driving through the desert for hundreds of miles through rust-red dirt, keeping an eye on the horizon for a glimpse of the giant rock in the distance, we were shocked when it suddenly appeared fully formed in front of us with no prior warning. We were told it was big, we were told it was beautiful, but the sight of this magnificent formation was both awe-inspiring and frightening, and when I think back to the moment we saw it, it almost evokes tears. The dust and dirt of these aboriginal lands covered my skin and permeated through to my core; I was spellbound.
Recognised as a UNESCO world heritage site, Uluru (sometimes referred to as Ayres Rock) is situated on aboriginal land within the 1326 square kilometre Uluru-Kata Tjuṯa National Park. The Anangu people are the traditional owners of the land, and they jointly manage the area along with the Federal Government and have done so since an agreement was formed in 1985.
The historical importance of the cultural site along with the traditional belief systems are recognised as belonging to one of the oldest human societies on earth. The aboriginal place name “Uluru” is said to have no specific meaning, whereas Kata Tjuṯa means ‘many heads’ in Pitjantjatjara which could hail to the many differing shapes of rock formations in the park. Most places within the national park are sacred ground within Tjukurpa (traditional law) and all visitors to the site should respect that.
The cultural centre within the national park is a great place to learn about the heritage and history of the area.
Start/end point: Mala car park
Average duration: 3 hours
Distance: 11km
When to go: Year round (between May-September coolest for walking) but if temperatures reach over 35 degrees the walking trails may be closed by the authorities. Early morning is best, avoiding the hottest part of the day.
Difficulty: Moderate
Must know info - There is only one water fill up point on this walk (at Kuniya Piṯi) and it can run dry in drought seasons so make sure you take enough water on your walk, several litres of water per person is best. There are toilets at the car park for the start/end of the walk.
Maps/Info: The walking route is very well signposted, with most of it on constructed boardwalk to protect the sacred ground. Easy directions - keep big rock on right hand side.
Downloadable brochure provided by Australian government:
https://parksaustralia.gov.au/uluru/pub/visitor-guide.pdf
All Trails provides a great downloable map which will sync onto Google maps/Maps me/other formats as required:
https://www.alltrails.com/en-gb/trail/australia/northern-territory/uluru-base-walk
The walk: We started off from Mala car park at about 7am on a hot October day. We knew it was best to walk early in the morning so we could complete the loop before the hottest part of the day hit us.
The walk is fairly even and flat with a slight uphill gradient at times. It’s boardwalk in some places, and gravel dirt track in others. Sensible walking shoes are best.
For the first few kilometres we walked around the base with Uluru on our right hand side, staring up at the giant rock in all its glory. This walk is great to see the many different angles of the rock, with the light and shadows showing just how complex a formation it is, with pockmarks, dips and crests, you won’t be bored of the views on this walk.
There is a point near to the start of the walk where people used to be able to climb to the top of Uluru. When we visited in 2017, the pathway to the top was still open to visitors; we decided not to climb it before we’d arrived due to the then current contentious issue that the ground was sacred to Anangu people whom had long been imploring visitors not to climb Uluru. The rock had been climbed since the 1950’s, a strenuous and dangerous walk which proved fatal to many due to heat-stroke, strong winds and tricky rock climbing sections. Due to this, the route to climb it was often closed to visitors anyway. On the day we visited, the route was closed due to extreme heat. Only in 2019 did the Anangu people finally have their voices heard and the route was permanently closed; it is now forbidden to climb Uluru.
The marked out route to the top of Uluru
Although we knew we weren’t going to climb the rock as we felt it wasn’t morally right, we were interested in the fact the route was still operational and took some pictures of the well-trodden path (above).
We continued on for another kilometre or so, considering the physical and cultural damage that thousands of visitors a year were doing by tramping up the rock. We quickly came to a signposted turn off. At this point, there is a pathway off to Kantju Gorge which is a side trip that is well worth doing. Off we trundled down the path towards the gorge where we soon discovered cascading water coming off the side of the ancient rock and deep pools in the gorge below.
The water gathering here reflected the deep red hues of Uluru, making the gorge appear murky brown but actually it was a collection of mesmerizingly clear fresh water. Surrounding the water were native grasses and small trees; an oasis in the desert.
We retraced our steps back to the main path and carried on around the base, taking in many more types of diverse grasses and trees, smaller waterholes and all the time kicking up rusty dirt in our wake. About half way around the base we came to a small section of acacia woodland which surprised us in it’s temerity and showed a determination to grow and thrive in this barren land.
We thought the revelations were over but we soon discovered another aspect of the rock in aboriginal drawings carved into the rock base in a sheltered spot. These drawings were hundreds of years old and had been staunchly preserved from both the elements and tourists; you couldn’t get too close to them as the boardwalk didn’t allow it, and rightly so!
Continuing on, you will reach the eastern most point of the walk at Kuniya Piṯi, a beautiful resting point where you can see the southern side of the rock in all it’s glory. This section of the path feels open and exposed - and due to the endless heat, very warm! This is where the only water fill-up station is located on the base walk.
The walk gently takes you back westward from here, with another side trip to must-see Muṯitjulu waterhole, a second glorious oasis with water allowing plants to grow and providing safety and survival for the native birds and wildlife that live here.
As you near the end of the walk, consider the native ancestors that have lived on this land for thousands of years, protecting and safeguarding the sacred ground, a legacy which lives on through your visits and desire to learn more about the marriage between the land and the people here. This is Uluru, it lies at the very heart of Australia’s rich lands and turbulent cultural history.